Nestled on a working farm atop the rolling slopes of Pompey, with a view overlooking central New York, Heritage Hill Brewhouse & Kitchen now serves locally grown food and its own in-house craft beers in a space steeped in family history.

Heritage Hill, located at 3149 Sweet Road, celebrated its grand opening on Oct. 12. Owner Dan Palladino decided to open the brewhouse as a way to keep the family business, Palladino Farms, financially viable for future generations.

“I wanted my kids to have the same type of experience that I did,” Palladino said. “I just felt that all the values I had came from those times.”

Palladino said he hopes the quality of the brews and the friendly atmosphere Heritage Hill offers will help the restaurant stand out in an increasingly competitive craft beverage industry in New York state.

Since 2012, the number of craft breweries in the state has doubled, according to a June press release from the office of Gov. Andrew M. Cuomo, with 30 new breweries in central New York alone. Paul Leone, executive director of the New York State Brewers Association, attributed this growth to state policies that encourage small local beverage manufacturers, as well as millennials’ desire for local products. Heritage Hill benefited from those state policies, Palladino said.

Some experts fear favorable laws will cause the craft beverage industry to outgrow its demand and then collapse, said Micheal Coons, academic administrator and head brewer at SUNY Morrisville. But Palladino said he’s not worried about his prospects.

“The market doesn’t get saturated with things that are unique,” Palladino said.

One thing that Palladino said is distinct about Heritage Hill is its emphasis on local food. The restaurant sources nearly all of its ingredients in state, using butter from Hamilton, goat cheese from Cuyler and hops from Kirkville, Wolcott and Fabius. Cazenovia chef Alicyn Hart — previously known for serving hyperlocal cuisine at her restaurant, Circa — now runs the kitchen.

Heritage Hill’s family roots also set it apart, Palladino said. The brewhouse sits on land that’s been in his family since 1951, when his grandfather established Palladino Farms. The house brewer, John Frazee, also grew up on a dairy farm in Fabius.

Palladino said he and his brother Mark were brainstorming ideas for their restaurant’s name and stumbled on the word “heritage.” The meaning seemed to be a perfect fit for their mission.

“I go, ‘Oh my God, that’s what we are, it’s got to be “heritage,” Palladino said. “It really captures everything about our family, about John’s family. It was really natural.”

Even the building’s interior design harkens back to Palladino’s past. Wood from the tree Mark and he used to play in as kids now forms the surface of the bar and many of the tabletops inside the restaurant.

So far, Palladino said customers seem excited to learn about his family history and try the restaurant’s local offerings, and the number of customers has exceeded his expectations. Palladino said he had planned to initially hire nine employees but had to increase that number to 17 because of the crowds. He said the brewhouse has attracted visitors of all kinds — families with children, retirees, “beer nerds.”

On a Friday night at about 7 p.m., the venue was packed. People lined the bar and filled the seating area. The wait for a table was more than an hour long. Palladino worked the bar and mingled with customers, sharing jokes and stories.

“The food is a work in progress,” said Genoa Wilson from Fayetteville, who was leaving after having soup, salad and beers with Bruce Erickson. “It’s farm-to-table, it’s probably local cuisine, so they’re giving it their best shot … the beer is absolutely fabulous.”

Wilson said the two were drawn to the restaurant because of the craft beers and the locally grown hops.

“We’ll come back for the beer and the steaks,” said Erickson, also from Fayetteville.

Tom Woodford III, from Tully, said he loved the family atmosphere and the focus on local food and family business. He and his friend Chris Rhea, from Pompey, have both been to Heritage Hill multiple times since it opened. They both said they loved Heritage Hill’s signature “Route 20 East” New England IPA.

Rhea, who lives just over the hill from Palladino Farms, said he came to hang out even before the brewhouse officially opened.

“I would bring my kids to run around, and the music was always great,” Rhea said. “And also the view is just amazing.”

Palladino said he believes that, during the summer, the milder weather and the spectacular views on top of Sweet Road will bring customers in droves. But for now, he’s excited about the support Heritage Hill has been getting from the community. A few local restaurants have approached him about having Heritage Hill beers on tap, and he’s planning to partner with a ski lodge that will serve its beers during the winter.

“I did always want to have a restaurant … but I didn’t assume that was possible.” Palladino said. “It’s been everything I’d hoped it would be.”

Published on November 4, 2018 at 10:22 pm

Contact Madeleine: mdavison@syr.edu